Folder for sewing machines



Lit 13,118.

Jan 23, 1923.,

1. E. CHALMAN; FOLDER FOR SEWING MACHINES.

ZSHhETS-SHEEl l.

FILED NOV. 16, I914.

- mmm Jam 23, 1928 1. E. CHALMAN.

FOLDER FOR SEWI NG MACHINES.

ZSHhHS- GHEEI FILED NOV- 6. 19H.

atented Ian. 23, 1923.

PAT

JOHN E. CHALMAN, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR T UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILIII'NOIS, A CORPORATION 015 ILLINOIS.

FOLDER FOR SEWING MACHINES.

Application filed November 16, 1914. Serial No. 872,384.-

I T 0 aZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, JOHN E. CHALMAN, La citizen of the United States,'residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook, State of lllinois, have invented certain new and use ful' Improvements in Folders for Sewing Machines. of which the following is a description, reference being had to the accompanying drawing and to the figures of reference marked thereon. a

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in folders for sewing machines and more particularly to a folder which is adapted to form aheni.

An object of the invention is to provide a hem folder which is formed of an inner and an outer section and to provide controlling means for separating the sections or withdrawing the inner section from the outer section so as to permit the stitching of circular garments and the overlapping of the stitching at a point where the seam bean. a

y A further object of the invention is to lrovide a folder of the above character with controlling means therefor which automaticiilly returns the inner sectionof the folder to its normal folding position when released by the operator.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a folder which may be readily attached to a cylinder machine andwhich may be quickly moved away from thestitching mechanism when desired.

These and other objects will in part be obvious and will in part be hereinafter more fully disclosed.

In the drawings which show by way of illustration one embodiment of the-invention:

Figure 1 is a perspective view showing a cylinder machine having my improvements applied thereto;

Figure 2 is a. plan View ofthe forward end of the work support, the hem folder and the controlling devices therefor;

Figure 3 is a front view of the same;

Figure 4 is an enlarged longitudinal sectional view'on the line 4'4 of Figure 2;

Figure 5 is a detail view showing the supporting bracket "for the hem, folder, the hem folder in normal position, and in dotted lines the folder moved away from the stitching; mechanism igure 6 is a perspective View showing the inner section may be quickly withdrawn from the outer section at the will of the the sections of the folder, the needle, and a garment being stitched thereon; v Figure 7 is a perspective view of the folder showing the sections separated;

Figure 8 is a section on the line 8-8 of Figure 4; and f Figure 9 is a detail showing treadle for operating shiftinglever.

The invention consists, generally, in providing a hem folder which is made with an 6 inner and an outer section, which sections are shaped and spaced so as to form a hem fold. These sections are mounted so that operator so as to permit the stitching of 'a hem 011 a circular garment, such as a trouser leg, or the like, so that the line of stitching may be caused to overlap and aline with the stitching at the commencement ofthe hem. The hem folder is mounted on a bracket which is attached to the work support of the machine, and a. lever connected with a treadle or knee shift is provided for separating the sections of the folder. A spring automatically operates to restore the folder to normal folding position.

Referring more in detail to ,the drawings, I have shown in Figure l a cylinder machine consisting of a supporting base 1, above which projects a cylinder work support 2.; An overhanging arm 3 is carried by said base and a needle bar 4 reciprocates in said overhanging arm. The needle bar is reciprocated by a needle lever 5. A needle 6 is attached to the needle bar and suitable complelnental stitch forming mechanism is located in the work support. A presser foot 7 holds the material against the work support.

My hem folder 8 is carried by a bracket 9. .The' bracket 9 is U-shaped so as to extend underneath the work support. The bracket after being positioned on to the work support over the free end thereof, is clamped in position by a clamping screw 10. Ad-

justable studs 11 and 12 may also be set up against the work support to aid in supporting and positioning the bracket. Pivoted to the bracket is a swingin arm 13 which carries a base plate 14. raid base plate 14 is adjustably secured to the arm 13 hy suitable screws 14 and slots 14". The bracket is formed with a bearing 15 in which is mounted a pivot stud l6 whlch is 1 feedfand-sup'ports both sections of the tion 21.

fixed to the arm by a screw 17. The folder is mounted on the base plate 14. The arm 13 may be swung about the bracket for moving the folder toward and from the stitching mechanism when desired. The arm is held with the folder in normal position adjacent the stitching mechanism by a spring 18 which is fixed to the arm and whichrbears against a tapered lug 19 carried by the bearing 15. This lug is so i as 'tohold ithejj-iarm .wi tlr the. folderin the position stated,=oi' al'so to hold the arm with the folder in the position shown in,..dotted lines in Figure 5.

* Thebase plate ..-l4;ex tends across the line folder.' The folder consists of anouter or scroll section 20 and an inner or arbor sec- The outer section 20 has a Shank 22 with slots 23 therein, and suitable screws 24 passing through the'slots serve to fixedly attachthe outer section of the folder to the base-plate 14. By this connection the capacity of the folder canbe adj ustedto a limited amount to accommodate materials of varying thicknesses. The inner section of the folder is slidingly mounted on the base plate 14. Said base plate has a slot 25 extending therethrough. A screw 26 passes through a block 27 and through the slot into the shank 28 of the inner section the folder. This block is wider than the slot and serves ;.to hold-the folder on the base plate. The shank 28 slides in a recess in the upper face of the base plate'which permits the inner section of the folder to move back and forth toward and from the outer sec.- tion of the folder. Themova-ble section 21 of the folder has an extension2l formed on the shank'thereof'which passes underneath the fixed section 20 of the folder. I This extension 21' is adapted to engage a shoulder 21 see Figure 4, and-limit the inward movement of this movable section of the folder.

The outer sectionl of the folder has a vertical concave guidingwall 29 and an overhanging wall 30.. The inner face of the over-.

hanging wall merges into-the concave face. of the verticalwal'l. The inner section of the folder hasa con'c-ave vertical wall 31 and an overhanging wall 32 at the upper edge thereof. The underfac'e of. this overhanging wall 32 mergesi-into the concave face of the vertical wall} "The wall 32' is spaced from the wall 30 soas to per nit the'fabric F to be inserted'gbetween the walls 30 and 3 2 and the fabric will-follow around the concave vertical wall 29 and the concave vertical the folder are gradually formed from the receiving end toward the delivering end thereof, so as to fold thefabric in a manner well known in the folder art.

' movable sections.

These walls of The fixed section 20 of the folder has a laterally extending lip 8, which extends across the receiving end of the folder when the parts are in normal position for folding the fabric and consequently across the line 8 between the By means of this lip the ravelings are prevented from being caught between the extension 21., above referred to,

of the movable section and the fixed section.

The folder is positioned relative to the stitching mechanism so that the needle (S passes down through the inner edge of the hem and stitches the same to the body portion of the fabric, as clearly shown in Figure 6 of thedrawings. The base H- being adjustably supported on the arm 13 by screw and slot connections permits the entire folder to be shifted laterally with respect to the needle to vary the margin between the edge of the hem and the line of stitching.

The purpose of making the folder in sections is to allow circular garments, such as .skirts, trouser legs and the like. to he The inner section of the folder, howeverflr may be readily withdrawn from the hem. as

shown in Figure 6. and when the hemming' operation is nearly,-finished, thc folded stitched part of the garment will hold the hem turned in so that the stitchingopcration may be completed-after this section of the folder is withdrawn.

As a means for withdrawing thifimovablc section of the folder, I have provided a rod 33 which is attached to or formed integral with the block 27; This .rod "slides in a suitable lug 3% carried by the base plate 14. The free end of the rod is-"providcd with a collar 35. A spring 36 encircling the rod bears" at one end against the collar and at the other end against the lug 34. This tends to force the rod to the right as viewed in Figure 3 and holds the inner section against the stop 21 and positionedv relative to the outer section for the normal folding operation of the folder.

to retain said lever in its normal position.

The spring 10 is attached to :1 lug ll on the lever and to a lug 42 on the base of the 15 isitionby the spring 36, so that there amie machine. This lever has an angle plate 43 attached to its upper end by a clamping screw 44. The angle plate is directly in line with the rod 33, so that when the lever is 5 shifted to the dotted line position shown in Figure 3, the upper end of the lever will engage the rod and move the same so as to carry the movable section of the folder to the dotted line position shown in this figure.

This lever 37 may be. connected to a foot presses the treadleor operates the knee shift which moves the lever 37, and this, through the rod 33. withdraws the inner section of l the folder from the hem fold in the garment and allows the closing or finishing of-the hem. Upon releasing the treadle the spring 5 4t) automatically returns the lever to its v normal position, thereby permitting the spring 36 to automatically return the inner section of the folder to its operative position. The lever may be manipulatedin 3 'ilac-ing the garment in the folderj atl the beginning of theoperation. The essential purpose of thecontrolling mechanifmiis to; permit the withdrawing of the inn'erise'etion' of the folder so as to finish thehem'ming "ohieration o'n-the circular garm nt- Ttw'ill be understood that this inner section of the folder can be withdrawnfwithoutstop-ping the stitching mechanism.

Inasmuch as there is no connection be 40 tween the rod 33 and the lever 37, except that the angle plate 43 presses against the end of the rod when shifted, T am able to swing the arm 13 ca-rryingthe base plate to the dotted line position shown in Figure 5, 1 5 so as to move the folder entirely out of operative position and thusgive access to the stitching meclianism'iorany. ,purpose desired. By adjusting the outer. section otthe folder, the width of the hemmay be varied 530 within certain limits. This outer section of the folder has a rearwardly projecting guide lf,- which (intends alongside of the presser foot, 7 and guides the edge of the hem, The

presser foot may l ie providedwith a yielding section 46 which. bearing on the upper face ot the goods at the single thickness thereof,

will tend to guide the inner edge of the hem fold, that-is. the edge 'beingstitched' ltis obvious that minor changes in the de so talls of construction may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth in the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, what ll claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent is:

1. The combination with a stitch formmg mechanism; of a folder including an outer section and an inner section cooperating therewith to makeia circular hem fold, a manually operated member, and means disposed between said manually operated member and the inner section of the folder for Withdrawing said inner section posed between theiinner section of the folder V and i' said lever whereby said inner section.

mayfbe withdrawn from: the circular hem fold-flat will wlthout stoppingthe stitch forming mechanism.

I 3.. The combination with a, stitch forming mechan1sm,-0f'a folder including, an outer section and an inner section. co-operating therewith tome/kc a hem fold, means under the 'control .of'the operator for withdrawing saidin'ner section-from the hem fold at will without, stopping the stitch forming mechanism, and automatic means for returning the inner section to normal folding position when released by ,the operator.

4. The combination with stitch forming mechanisrmflof a folder for forming a hem; fold including an outer section having a concave guiding wall and an inner section having a concave guiding wall facing the wall of the outer section, said inner section having an'upper wall project. inginto the hem'fold, means under the control :of the operator for withdrawing. said innlerf section and the upper wall thereof froinfl the hem foldat will, and automatic meansfor returning the inner section to normal folding position.

5,. The combination with stitch forming mechanism, of a'folder for forming a hem fold includingq'an, outer section having a concave vertical wall and an'overhanging wall at the upper edge; thereof, and an inner section having concave vertical wall and an overhanging wall at the upper edge thereof, said overhanging wall on the inner section being located-beneath and spaced from the overhanging wall on the outer section. whereby afabric may be guided between said over-- hanging walls and folded by the concave walls on said sections, means under the control of the operator for withdrawing the inner section from the hem fold at will. and automatic means for returning the inner section to normal foldingposition.

6. The combination with stitch forming mechanism, of a hem folder including a movable section having a part adapted to extend into the hem fold, means under the control of the operator for withdrawing said part lever for-engaging'the end of the rod and moving the same for withdrawing the movable section from the hem fold.

'7. The combination with a work support, a bracket attached to said work support, an arm pivotally connected to said bracket, a

base plate carried by said arm, a folder mounted on said base plate, said folder in-' cluding a fixed section and a movable sec tion, a rod carried by said arm and connected to said movable section for shifting 1 the same relative to. the fixed section, a spring engaging said rod for holding the movable section normally in folding positionyand a lever mounted independently of said bracket and normally out of engagement with said rod and adapted to be moved into engagement with the rod for shifting the movable section of the'folder. 4

8. The combination with a work support, a bracket attached to said work support, an arm pivotally connected to said bracket, a base plate carried by said. arm, a folder mounted on said base plate, said folder including a fixed section and a movable section, a rod carried by said arm and connected to said movable section for shifting the same relative to the fixed section, a spring engaging said rod for holding the movable section normally in folding position, a lever adapted to engage said. rod for shifting the movable section of the folder, and a spring for normally holding the lever out of contact with the rod whereby said arm may be swung about its pivotal connection with the sup porting bracket.

9. In a folding device, a folder comprising relatively fixed and laterally movable sec.- tions for forming a hem fold, one of said sections being formed at its receiving end with a guard lip extending across the opening of the folder and merging with the inner face .of the other section.

10. The combination with a work support and a stitch forming mechanism; of a folder mounted on the work support to swing forwardly from operative to inoperative position relative to said stitch forming mechanism, said folder including relatively fixed and movable sections, and means under the control of 'the operator adapted for shiftin the movable section of the folder laterall y when said folder is in operative position.

11, A folding device for forming a hem for maintaining an unbroken guiding wall! in the folder when the movable section is shifted away from the fixed section, one of said sections being formed at its receiving end with a guard lip extending across the opening of the folder and merging with the inner face of the other section.

13. The combination with a work support and a stitch forming mechanism, of a folder mounted on said work support to swing toward or away from said stitch forming mechanism, said folder comprising relatively fixed and movable sections, and means under the control of the operator for shifting the movable section at will, said means including a separable connection for permittin the folder to be swung away from said stitcn forming mechanism.

14. The combination with a stitch forming mechanism; of a folder comprising relativ ely fixed and movable sections, operating means under the control of the operator for shifting the movable section away from the fixed section without interfering with thi operation of the stitch forming mechanism, and automatic means for returning said movable sectionto normal folding position under release of the operating means by the operator. I

15. In combination with a sewing machine having stitch forming mechanism and including a needle and a cloth-plate, a hemmer having a relatively fixed scroll section with an edge-guiding member adjacent the. line of scam formation, an arbor section intcrfitting with the scroll section and extending across the line of seam formation in front of the edge-guiding member, and means for shifting said arbor section to one side of the line of scam formation to permit uninterrupted stitching of endless hems.

In testimony whereof. I affix my signatluc in the presence of two witnesses.

JOHN E. CHALMAN. Witnesses S. GEORGE TATE. 

